Courtesy of Hermione de Paula
Bridal has its mainstays, and you’ve undoubtedly heard their names before. That voluminous textured ball gown with a corseted bodice and a bit of edge is most likely a Vera Wang creation; while a silk faille A-line gown adorned with hand-cut appliqués is most likely an Oscar de la Renta or Carolina Herrera confection. That dreamy gown with a sweeping train and open back that you saw on Instagram at a jaw-droppingly gorgeous wedding in Italy? That was likely Monique Lhuillier. An expertly-cut lace ballgown with a traditional flair and fashion-forward details? Odds are that’s Haute Couture, likely from the ateliers of Dior or Valentino.
But bridal’s recent seasons have proved especially exciting for the bride seeking something unexpected—from a designer she’s never heard of. These fresh talents have ushered in a more competitive, dynamic, and diverse bridal fashion scene for those looking to stand out from the Chantilly-clad pack.
No matter what your personal style, these new designers (who hail from the U.S. and the world over) are driving the of-the-moment bridal conversation, offering twists on the traditional staples we’ve grown accustomed to. Introducing: bridal’s new guard.
Danielle Frankel
Danielle Frankel doesn’t want ‘bridal’ to be considered a curse word in the fashion industry. “I’m looking to bring all of the fashion-forward elements of ready-to-wear to the bridal experience, and give women something that I see them looking for, but that they’re not finding: simple pieces that are technically beautiful, and investment pieces that you can carry beyond the wedding.”
Frankel, a runner-up in the CFDA Fashion Fund (the first time a bridal designer has entered the fund, let alone won one of its prizes) is all about taking the best parts of getting dressed–layering, styling, personalization–and applying them to bridal. Her signature pieces like jackets, shirting, belts, gloves, jewelry and unique separates take center stage, and styling unique bridal looks with them lies at the core of her brand’s ethos. Her first collection debuted with major buzz as have her three collections since, and celebrity brides like Zoe Kravitz, Erin Foster, Katie Lee, and Julia Garner have all worn her looks for their big days. Frankel’s brand is one that’s all about giving women what they want, while still breaking the mold. As she tells BAZAAR Bride, “I want to challenge brides to take it one step further. My bride understands that being cool can also be classic.”
Hermione de Paula
Stints at Dior, Galliano, McQueen, and Giles (and a degree from Central Saint Martins) prepared British designer Hermoine de Paula for her foray into bespoke bridal. Her flair for “romantic surrealism” in both her prints and her design motifs results in sheaths and gowns that surprise and delight upon closer inspection.
When shopping this line, expect loads of intricate embroidery inspired by any and all things natural—from the ocean floor to English gardens. Brides can take the as is, or work with the house on customizations to each and every element of the gown, from the cut of the silhouette, to the placement of the embroidery, to even more personal touches, like weaving sentimental sayings, motifs, and more into the fabric. From a wreath of pastel blossoms framing a keyhole back to a sentimental line of poetry, or even your wedding date threaded into your waistline or cuff, this designer puts sentimentality, personalization, and quality above all else.
Cushnie
Sleek, chic, and cosmopolitan, Carly Cushnie is bringing her signature, sexy silhouettes to the aisle. The bridal industry might be jam-packed with new names (this story alone is case in point), but Cushnie stands out with her unadorned, no-frills take on bridal that fashion girls and minimalist brides will undoubtedly be attracted to.
This line is for those looking to show off an enviable frame, skip all-over lace, and opt out of all things over-the-top. Fancy yourself a modernist? Prepare to immediately find a style (or five) that speaks to you in Cushnie’s world. Even those who opt for a romantic, princess vibe down the aisle may find something here—the brand’s bridal range is also full of options for civil ceremonies, rehearsal dinners, and the after party.
Kyheli
This is the kind of label that the style-obsessed only dream of coming across when searching for new fashion kids on the block in the world of weddings and beyond. Founded by Ahmed Alkhyeli, who studied architecture before turning to fashion, Kyheli focuses on eveningwear and made-to-measure pieces that merge femininity with strength, and bold shapes with a delicate romance. The brand’s prêt-à-porter is only the beginning, but has countless options for the civil ceremony, rehearsal dinner, after party, and any event in between. The label’s haute couture, while not officially dubbed as such by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, is absolutely breathtaking and features endless options for the ceremony.
Whether you’re after a look that’s soft yet sexy, or a vibe that’s ethereal and undeniably dreamy, this label has cuts, technique, embroideries, and details that will surprise and delight the fashion bride who thinks she’s seen it all.
Markarian
Think ethereal—but not boho. Markarian is for the demi-romantic, the bride who embraces the dreamy quality of party dressing with a metropolitan sensibility.
Think super-femme features, but with a sleek side. The label’s bridal range is full of draped slip dresses for the modernist and Victorian-inspired necklines and skirts for the bride who isn’t afraid on a fashion-forward riff on frills. This New York-based brand has options for the cosmopolitan and the avant-garde bride looking to make a statement, without feeling like she’s gone over the top. Despite the modernity the brand undoubtedly exudes in its clean lines, expect feminine touches like ruffles, lace, tiers, and pouf sleeves throughout—this brand believes in special touches for special occasions.
Odylyne The Ceremony
Designer Stephanie White’s Los Angeles home-base and fashion background come together in Odylyne The Ceremony, a bridal collection that’s equal parts Californian cool and desert dreamer—with a hint of Victoriana sprinkled in between.
With an indie affinity for fabrics that are outside the bridal box, like laces with celestial motifs, White draws from poetic and folkloric inspirations like theater, art, literature, history, and music to create romantic silhouettes complete with super long trains, statement sleeves, cool capes, and more.
Cucculelli Shaheen
Husband-and-wife team Anthony Cucculelli and Anna Rose Shaheen met while they were designing at Diane Von Furstenburg in 2005, and then took their talents to Italy, where they designed for Roberto Cavalli and Pucci.
The design duo then returned to New York City to create a made-to-measure eveningwear and bridal range that feels equal parts cosmopolitan and globally-influenced. More often than not, bridal is more about appliqués, lace, and floral motifs—but this range is more about beading and clean lines, with a subtle dose of glamour and sophistication. If you’re after super-luxe embroidery, sleek shapes, and personalized details (like including your names, wedding date, star signs, and more into the beadwork of your look), this is the brand for you.
Costarellos
Athens native Christos Costarellos merges the ease of the Mediterranean with the attention to detail of a Parisian house and the sophistication of an English label. Often utilizing multiple laces to create one single silhouette, this designer is never looking for the easy way out when it comes to designing for his beloved polished bohemian bride. The best part? His bridal designs often take notes from his romantic, effortless, and Victorian-inspired ready-to-wear collections—so fashion-forward details like high-necklines, statement sleeves, and illusion paneling are always on offer.
From hand-cut, fluttery appliqués to softly frayed hems, this is the brand for brides who are torn between going barefoot on the beach or airing on the side of something more refined. Expect loads of laissez-faire with elements of polish at a price point that feels aspirational without breaking the bank.
Dana Harel
Imagine everything you love about wedding gowns—gossamer tulles, delicate laces, innovative silhouettes, delicate beading—all on offer in one collection, with a level of cohesion that’s become a rarity in bridal.
With even the top labels aiming to design something for every bride, Dana Harel is doing just that—but with a sophistication and attention to detail that’s all her own. In her most recent collections, Harel is doing what their Israeli counterparts aren’t always nailing: romance–without being overwhelmingly sexy.
Valentine Avoh
Brussels-based designer Valentine Avoh began her career working in the ateliers of Alexander McQueen and Alexis Mabille—but it was a commission to design a wedding gown in 2009 that had an indelible impact. Avoh launched her namesake label in 2017, inspired by the charm, glamour, and effortlessness of Old Hollywood icons.
Avoh’s commitment to quality begins with the fabric, and the designer sources only the best textiles from Italy, France, and her native Belgium to construct her bespoke creations. With one collection under her belt, this is a name worth watching in the world of bridal—especially for brides looking for refinement and polish, without the pomp and circumstance of a voluminous ballgown.
Lein
Downtown NYC-based designer Meredith Stoecklein is all about keeping things simple, easy-to-wear, and versatile. Her collections are consistent in their ease, always taking notes from the designer’s childhood memories, travels, and inspiring women in her world. Her latest season was all about options for customization, allowing brides to make the range their own in ways far beyond styling.
One common thread—ease—continuously comes to mind when looking at Lein’s dresses, separates, and gowns. From statement necklines to chic minis, each look speaks to a different, down-to-Earth bride and celebration. Like some other key names on this list, LEIN isn’t intended to speak only to the aisle. Stoecklein’s goal is to have her brides in her pieces long after the big day.
ASHI Studio
The Middle East has long been known as an epicenter of glamour, and Beirut-based Ashi Studio caters to the region’s most opulent.
With a keen eye for innovative, architectural silhouettes and intricate embroideries, this label has been praised for their bespoke bridal by those in the know–but it hasn’t yet received the love it should stateside. With a rise in the brand’s celebrity fanbase—SJP, Zendaya, Lady Gaga, and Whitney Port have all worn the brand—and a capsule of bridal gowns available out of their Beirut-based studio, we’re hoping more and more American brides (with a flair for the dramatic and a penchant for the innovative) take note.
Andrea Iyamah
The bridal world doesn’t need any more of the same—and this label is for the classicist who dares to be different. Ontario, Canada and Lagos, Nigeria-based Andrea Iyamah offers twists on traditional shapes—from voluminous ballgowns to curve-hugging sheaths and everything in-between. This label isn’t about going against the grain to spite tradition, but rather, it offers riffs on familiar bridal styles that feel fresh at a time where any and everything in weddings is posted, reposted, and pinned time and time again. Iyamah also answers the call of the bride who wants a look all her own with a custom design offering, and brides can inquire about working with the designer on a fully bespoke piece online.
Consider this label if you’re after a look that’s not too minimal and sleek, but also not too fanciful and flirty; Iyamah walks the fine line between the metropolitan and the maximalist.
Self Portrait
Han Chong, hailing from London’s Central Saint Martins by way of Malaysia, is the designer behind the contemporary label Self-Portrait. Best known for a popular array of day dresses, cocktail options, and go-to ready-to-wear, this label has a new bridal-specific edit aimed at outfitting the bride as well as her ‘maids and guests.
The bridal collection, which is available to shop online, is not all about the brand’s signature graphic Guipure laces, embroideries, and embellishments. Instead, a modern mix of delicate pleats, pearl trims, and modest necklines round out the assortment. Think of this label for your civil ceremony, rehearsal dinner, or the aisle itself—especially if you’re after a fashion-forward that’s easily shoppable.
Chana Marelus
Chana Marelus, based in Israel’s Bnei Brak, an ultra-Orthodox Jewish community just outside of Tel Aviv, answered the call of her conservative clientele: those with a religious need to cover their chests, arms, midriffs, legs, and more–with the style and taste- level of the Paris runways. In Marelus’ bridal and evening ranges, sleeves and high necklines are a given. So are intricate beadwork, long trains, and impressive texture plays.
Marelus started her career designing high-necked, long-sleeved gowns for her community, but her brand has now transformed into a global one. Her latest collections introduced sheer paneling and new necklines for brides worldwide seeking coverage without a conservative look and feel.
Steven Khalil
Praised for his classic yet glamorous sensibility, Steven Khalil’s bridal and eveningwear collections are romantic yet fashion-forward, not to mention completely customizable.
From voluminous ball gowns to heavily embellished sheaths, each wedding dress from this label is as luxe as the next. Take note: These designs are not for the wallflower, the bohemian, or the minimalist.
Halfpenny London
Designer Kate Halfpenny channeled her years styling and designing custom pieces for the red carpet when launching her London-based bridal range, which is focused on designing for real women, regardless of size, and weaves together vintage inspiration with an effortless sense of British cool.
With celebrity credits that include Kate Moss and Erin O’Connor, Halfpenny London is designed to be styled by and for each individual bride, allowing them to mix and match separates and layer pieces until they’ve found their best look.
Nevenka
This is a line that speaks to the cool bride—and the bohemienne. Melbourne based designer Rosemary Masic launched Nevenka in 2006, with the goal of creating a label heavily influenced by her Eastern European heritage.
Named after the designer’s mother, the collection is identified by its feminine motifs, downtown edge, and use of high quality craftsmanship and fabrications. While much of this label’s ready-to-wear can work for brides, the brand sources fabrics from Croatia, Italy, France, Turkey, and Balkan countries exclusively for its bridal range and offers a bespoke package for those seeking to get the look for their walk down the aisle.
Suzanne Harward
Australian designer Suzanne Harward has been creating bridal looks in Melbourne since 1975, but recently landed on American soil with stockists in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Minneapolis, New York, and Dallas. The label’s collections offer something for every bride—but with a current point of view, merging trend-driven ideas with a keen understanding of a modern bridal clientele. Expect a combination of clean lines, forward-thinking details, and at times, touches of a neo-Victorian vibe. Whats more? Expect to make a selection from a wide range of shapes; this label’s collections are well-rounded, with any and every silhouette on offer.
Cortana
If you’ve hit your local bridal salons and department stores and find that most gowns are far too stuffy, stiff, or overwrought for your taste, trust us: Cortana gets you. Fine fabrics are this Barcelona-based brand’s forte, spinning multi-ply charmeuse, chiffon, and silk tulle into slim sheaths and fuller skirts that feel low-key yet luxe.
Delicate touches—like a frayed edge or a wider weave silk—feel special when done the Cortana way, and design details that amplify comfort (like ballgowns that are actually separates in disguise) are hidden throughout the brand’s range.
Benchellal
This new design house hails from The Netherlands and speaks to modernists and fashion-lovers who have a flare for the avant garde. Mixing old and new, art and architecture, Benchellal is on our radar as one to watch in bridal—and in fashion across the board.
While they’ve yet to announce a formal bridal range, their sculptural and playful DNA has them on our radar for brides willing to take a risk on a new name with a not-so-bridal aesthetic—that still feels spot on for the aisle.
Galvan
If you consider yourself the ultimate modernist, minimalist, and metropolitan—look no further than Galvan. This London-based label has become synonymous with It-girls like Emily Ratajkowski and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, who’ve sported this label’s silky (and slinky) dresses and jumpsuits on nights out and on the red carpet.
The brand now has its own dedicated bridal collection, which is available to shop online. From sultry yet sophisticated jumpsuits to beaded midi dresses and ceremony-worthy slips, this label has options for the fashion-forward bride—and lots of them.
Donatelle Godart
A background styling for international fashion publications, lead designer Donatelle Godart to design her namesake label for brides-to-be. She knows what it takes for brides to have an inherent sense of style, infusing her Parisian je ne sais quoi into each silhouette. Godart consistently channels 70’s vibes, turning to David Hamilton and Jane Birkin for inspiration.
The fabrics are always luxe—despite the brand’s accessible price point—and unlike most lines that focus on slips and bias cuts, these actually flatter on a wide variety of body shapes and sizes. Think laissez faire, French girl vibes with a little bit of Ossie Clark thrown in.
Violette Tannenbaum
It was a personal commission from a friend that inspired Violette Tannenbaum to begin designing bridal gowns for “cool girls.” Tannenbaum’s pieces—from separates (like the top pictured here) to easy-to-wear gowns—are all about that easy yet chic vibe the French are best known for. Her goal? To create “pretty dresses for pretty days.”
At Tannenbaum’s atelier, pieces are made-to-measure, via a bespoke, one-on-one experience with Violette herself, where brides are able to select materials and silhouette options as well as customize details in the design process. The look? Effortless, chic, and the epitome of Parisian laissez-faire.
Lihi Hod
Shapewear is typically the plight of most brides leading up to a first fitting (along with shoes and overall anticipation), but what if it was already built into your gown and taken off your to-do list? Lihi Hod has a designer pedigree from her time in John Galliano’s atelier (circa Dior)—and she’s taken that know-how to her cutting table.
In Hod’s atelier, each gown is lined in a fine stretch-mesh, and hidden separates are secretly bodysuits that smooth your curves and ensure expert fit. Body-shaping aside, Hod’s aesthetic is Euro-bohemian, easy-going yet elegant. This designer walks that fine line of cool girl with an elevated-feel, understanding each bride’s desire to find the balance between timeless and trendy.
Les Reveries
With a freshly launched bridal collection on the scene, it was a no brainer for us to include Les Reveries, a NY-based label with a laid-back style, to this hit list.
The new Les Reveries bridal collection features eight silk dresses available to shop exclusively on Net-a-Porter. From a chic halter silhouette to an elegant asymmetrical jacquard gown, Victorian laces and bohemian vibes abound in this capsule collection. It’s official: this reasonably priced line is calling all brides-to-be looking to dress less conventionally, but with effortless style.
Carrie Goldberg
Weddings & Travel Director
Carrie Goldberg is HarpersBAZAAR.com’s Weddings & Travel Director.
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